Massage the paste into the tofu with the curd, milk, cream, malai, the lime juice and your fat of choice until every piece is coated. Cover and rest at least 30 minutes - this is where the flavour works deep.
2
While it rests, set the rice water singing: bring 3200 ml water to a boil with the whole spices and salt, then slip in 800 g basmati.
3
Lay the marinated tofu in an even bed at the bottom of your dum handi - the foundation the whole biryani builds on.
4
Watch the rice, not the clock
At about 65 percent cooked - grains still firm at the core - lift out 70 percent of the rice and layer it gently over the marinade.
5
Let the remaining rice ride to about 75 percent done, then crown the handi with this final layer. Two layers, two textures - that is the dum secret.
6
Now the pour: mix 400 ml water (half the weight of your rice) with a small splash of oil and rain it evenly over the whole surface - it keeps every grain steaming, not scorching. Trust your eye here: if the rice ran firmer, lean a little more water; if softer, a little less. The firmness of your rice and its quality decide the exact pour.
7
Seal the handi (a rope of dough works beautifully) and dum on low heat for about 30 minutes. No peeking - the steam is doing the cooking.
8
The finish: warm 40 g ghee with 40 g milk and the saffron, and rain it over the top. Rest a few minutes, open at the table, serve to applause.
